san sebastian Archives - christine in spain

As much as I loved parts about living in Andalucía, (near-daily sunshine, I’m looking at you!) I am so happy to be in The Basque Country. The food, the people, the natural beauty, the culture and getting to live close to San Sebastián all make my heart flutter. This city is so special to me, and if I save up a good chunk of an expat pension, perhaps I’ll buy property there one day and make my lil’ dream of living there come true.

San Sebastián captures the hearts of many of its visitors…so much, that hearing anything negative about the city rarely happens. Ok, maybe a gripe or two about its priceyness, but not much outside of that. It’s a comfortable size, so it’s not sprawling and overwhelming like Madrid (which I love as well!), it’s got that world-renowned food scene that you may have heard a thing or two about, and it’s a hop and a skip away from the French border.

San Sebastián has a long and varied history: what was once a quaint fishing village is now a world-class resort town, thanks to the Queen of Spain making this city her royal summer residence at the Miramar Palace overlooking La Concha Bay. It’s also set to be the European Capital of Culture, along with Wrocław, Poland in 2016.

And did I mention how beautiful it is?

San-Seb, as I affectionately call it, has those rolling, emerald-green hills so characteristic of Basque Country, no less than three(!) beaches, and architecture that rivals the streets of Paris; it’s streets are chock-full of Belle Époque buildings.

Come for a weekend, and you’ll want to stay forever…don’t say I didn’t warn you!

What do you love most about San Sebastián?

Disclosure: This post, while written by me, was sponsored by a third-party.

Everything You Need to Know About El Txikiteo

April 29, 2013 by Christine 18 Comments

Pintxos and kalimotxos in San Sebastián

It doesn’t take long after one’s arrival to Basque Country to discover that Basque culture is distinct from Spanish culture. This shouldn’t come as a shock, since historically, Basques and Spanish are different people–but you’ll still find the odd tourist wondering where they could see a flamenco show in Bilbao (not to say it’s not possible, it’s just not at all common like in Andalucía.)

As I’m nearly 6 months into my new life in Basque Country, I’ve discovered a few cultural traditions that I didn’t experience down in Southern Spain, the first of which is El Txikiteo (also known as Poteo).

Spanish beer and wine

What is El Txikiteo?

El Txikiteo is the simple act of a group of friends (called a cuadrilla here) getting together to ir de pintxos from bar to bar while drinking small glasses of wine or cider (txikitos), or a small serving of beer (zurito). It’s bar-hopping at it’s finest; sampling delicious local wines and specialties of the region, catching up with friends and family, and getting to try out a varied selection of bars in the area. Since they say that The Basque Country has more bars and restaurants than many European Union countries have as a whole, there’s no shortage of places to txikitear.

Grab all the pintxos you want directly from the bar!

When Can You Txikitear?

El Txikiteo is for the midday and evening, from about noon-3pm and 7-11pm.

Deep-fried artichoke, wrapped in bacon.

Where in Spain can you Txikitear?

El Txikiteo is mostly done in The Basque Country, Navarra, La Rioja, Cantabria and in the northern part of Burgos.

Why Txikitear?

El Txikiteo is a social institution that’s designed for friends and family to meet up outside of the home over sips and small bites, before a sit-down meal. While it’s origins are unclear, it’s certain that it was designed to relieve the stresses of daily life!

People off to txikitear in San Sebastián

How to Txikitear

Meet with your friends in one of the many zonas de pintxos; located in every Basque city (and nearly every town too!) You’ll know you’ve found a good one when you see lots of bars packed into a small area, locals with drinks in hand and a bar that’s almost too busy to take your order. Almost.

Often, friends will elect one friend to be in charge of el bote–the money that everyone pools together to ir de pinchos. This guy or gal will be the one responsible for paying the group’s tab in each location.

Then, you’ll head straight to the bar, pluck whatever pintxos tickle your fancy straight off the bar itself, order yourself a txikito or zurito, and throw your napkins to the floor when done. Yes, really! In a few minutes be ready to repeat the process all over again in the next bar…and again, and again. Bar-hopping in Basque Country is fun, fast-paced and not for the faint of heart.

De pinchos en Plaza Nueva, Bilbao

My favorite places to Txikitear:

Bilbao

Calle del Maestro García Rivero
Calle Licenciado Pozas
Plaza Nueva (in the Casco Viejo)
Calle Somera (also in the Casco Viejo)

San Sebastián

Calle 31 de Agosto
Calle Pescadería
Barrio de Gros
Anywhere in the Parte Vieja!

Vitoria

Calle Eduardo Dato
Plaza España

Why Basque Country Needs to Be on Your Itinerary

May 7, 2012 by Christine 9 Comments

Playa La Concha in San Sebastián, Basque Country

I often get e-mails from readers asking for my Spain travel advice. They give me a run-down of their itinerary and it always looks something like this: Madrid, Barcelona and somewhere in Andalucía (usually Sevilla or Granada). Once in awhile I might see a trip planned around a famous festival—like San Fermínes (The Running of the Bulls) in Pamplona or Tomatina in tiny Buñol, but usually they just stick to this tried-and-true sun and sangria trail.

Plaza Nueva, Bilbao, Basque Country

Sounds like a pretty solid travel itinerary, right? Barcelona is a city I could never tire of and Andalucía is a must for a glimpse of the romantic Spain we dream of. But, I can’t help but add my two cents and tell them they should really try to make it up north during their time in Spain. And by “really try” I actually mean if you don’t include it you’re making a big mistake.

Yup, I said it.

San Sebastián

The mysterious north of Spain seems to be the country’s best-kept secret. From the wild coast and fresh seafood of Galicia, to the crisp cider and snow-capped mountains of Asturias and the rolling green hills and Michelin-starred restaurants of Basque Country, the north of Spain is by no means untouched by tourism. But, it offers a completely different Spain than the one you’ve envisioned.

And Basque Country, a region special to me, will be worth every penny it takes you to include it in your travel plans. Different people feel differently about well, different, places but—I’ve yet to meet a person who has been to Basque Country and didn’t love the place. I’m not a gambler, but I’d be willing to bet Basque Country will have the same effect on you too.

You’ll eat delicious pintxos, which kick tapas’ a$$ any day:

You’ll wash it down with Txakolí, a crisp, white wine from the region.

You’ll admire how Bilbao balances its industrial past with its modern present.

You’ll walk mouth agape in San Sebastián.

…but most of all you’ll wonder why a place so beautiful is one many seem to have never even heard of. So, I’m feeling generous and I’m letting the secret out. Go to Basque Country, and thank me later.