An Evolving Passion: One Girl’s Relationship with Spanish Food
I’m so happy to have Lauren of Spanish Sabores guest posting today! Though we’ve known each other in the wonderful world of travel blogging for a while, we just recently met up in Madrid. I’m so impressed by her entrepreneurial spirit (check out her food tour in Madrid!) and absolutely love her food posts over on her blog, so I asked her to write about where it all began: her relationship with la comida Española, that is! Make sure to pop over to her site Teach and Travel to check out a piece I did on three pueblos blancos I adore.
“It’s nothing special…”
That is what I would have said if you had asked me about Spanish cuisine six years ago. I was seriously mistaken and quite naïve—to be blamed in part on a penny pinching Spanish host mother and the free, but often mediocre, tapa culture of Granada. I would never have thought that only six years later I would be earning a living giving food tours and writing about authentic Spanish cuisine.
When I first came to Granada, Spain in 2007 to study Spanish, I lived with a retired couple— Miguel and Josefina. Miguel had a mild form of dementia and didn’t talk very much; he mostly just watched football and occasionally asked me if I liked what we were eating. Josefina was the family’s sole provider, and at 67 years old she was able to make some sort of living by hosting exchange students. I arrived starry eyed, expecting a loving Spanish mother figure, but instead I met business minded Josefina. It was her seventeenth year hosting students, and it really was her business.
I didn’t really mind; I went out a lot and loved the apartment’s location. But for learning about Spanish food, Josefina’s house was not the right place! Despite claiming to have owned a small restaurant in her younger years, Josefina was a pretty awful cook—when she cooked at all! Mostly, she fed me frozen foods or typical inexpensive Spanish dishes. There was arroz a la cubana (white rice, tomato sauce and a fried egg), ensalada de arroz (a cold rice salad with frozen vegetables, tuna, olive oil and vinegar), and tortilla a la francesa (a boring, dry omelet with absolutely no toppings or seasoning). Sounds great right? In fact, during the entire four months that I lived there I was only served meat once (if you don’t count the frozen fried concoctions) and by the end I had lost about 10 pounds!
Image found here.
I couldn’t complain because I was in Granada—the city of free tapas and cheap kebabs. I survived quite nicely on croissants, small beers and free tapas, and lamb kebabs, and I actually quite enjoyed that diet at the time. I was convinced that Spanish food was not much more than cheese, olives, ham and eggs (all of which are indeed important Spanish ingredients) and rarely ate out at a restaurant to be able to know any differently—I was on a student budget after all!
Toward the end of my four-month stay I remember visiting Madrid. My friend and I decided to splurge on a nice restaurant recommended in our guidebook. I was dying for a steak—any cut would do. We analyzed the menu, her Spanish better than mine, but couldn’t find the word we’d learned for steak—bistec. So we settled on other options, only to quickly observe everyone around us diving in to their big, juicy steaks. We learned a valuable (albeit disappointing) vocabulary lesson that night; bistec means steak in much of Latin America, but in Spain people use other vocabulary.
So after four months in Spain I headed home, largely unimpressed with Spanish food and confused about why I kept on hearing that Spain had “the best restaurants in the world”. Oh, if I only knew!
I moved to Seville two years later, and was, gastronomically, at a completely different point in my life. I had since discovered a love of wine in Argentina and taken various wine courses as a part of my degree in tourism. I’d also worked in some of the best Massachusetts restaurants and country clubs where the chefs imparted upon me their love of the kitchen— so much, in fact, that I had to make the difficult decision between culinary school and moving to Spain. It was a tough choice, but Spain was a much more economical decision at the time.
The night I met my husband I was only one week into my new Spanish life in Seville. I told him that Spanish food was boring. He looked at me, confused. He didn’t defend his cuisine, instead he just told me to wait. He ordered some tapas at the restaurant where we were having a drink. It was a simple tapas bar, but it was where I woke up to the reality of the quality of Spanish cuisine.
Three years later food is an enormous part of my life. I am constantly trying new dishes and restaurants in search of exciting combinations or simply well done traditional food. I now believe that Spain offers one of the most exciting, high quality, and healthy cuisines in the entire world. It just takes some time to try things and find out what you like.
Here are some of my favorite Spanish foods that I had never tried in the US. If you get the chance, please try them—they might just change your life!
Pulpo al Gallego: Galician style octopus is thinly sliced and served with smoked Spanish paprika, sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.
Boquerones en Vinagre: Anchovy fillets that are cured in a vinegar marinade.
Salmorejo: A creamy cold tomato soup made of tomatoes, hard-boiled egg, stale bread, and olive oil. Served with diced Serrano ham on top.
Huevos Rotos: Soft-boiled eggs served on top of homemade French fries with choice of Serrano ham, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), vegetables, etc.
Croquetas de Boletus: Crispy fried mushroom and béchamel fritters.
Langostinos Tigres a la Plancha: Delicious jumbo prawns sprinkled with sea salt and grilled, served whole in their shell.
At this point, I still fantasize about going to culinary school and being the next Ferran Adria, but I make due with being a decent home cook instead. Yet I try to transmit my love for the Spanish kitchen through my writing and now with my food tours in Madrid. Basically, I don’t want other people to ever endure four months thinking that Spain is nothing more than olives, cheese, and free tapas. Spanish food is fresh, diverse and delicious, and Spain is an essential travel destination for anyone who loves food.
Scenes from Conil de la Frontera, Cádiz Part II
Did you catch Part I of Scenes from Conil?
The Tower of Guzman, which is the symbol of the city.
A cute pup cooling off in the shade of its owner’s restaurant.
The Church of Santa Catalina.
The blindingly white streets of Conil.
One of Conil’s many beautiful beaches.
The walkway down to the beach and hidden coves.
Palm trees and bell towers.
Hints of color in an otherwise white town.
Scenes from Conil de la Frontera, Cádiz
A visual voyage through the white-washed walls and golden beaches of Conil de la Frontera:
Playa de los Bateles, studded with beach umbrellas in the middle of a hot afternoon.
An artisan market, offering up handmade jewelry, clothing, and more on the beach promenade.
Fresh squeezed orange juice, café con leche and pan con tomate=the breakfast of champions.
La Iglesia de Santa Catalina, built in 1411 onto what was once a mosque.
Though I opted to rent an apartment in Conil, the next time I go, I’ll seriously consider camping in Conil because the campsite is close to here. Looks divine, doesn’t it?
Summertime= al fresco dining.
Atlantic foam+golden sand
The streets of Conil—offering refuge from the heat amongst their shady twists and turns.
Come back for part 2 of scenes from Conil tomorrow! And while you’re at it, check out my first piece over at The Cultureist on ventas in Spain.