Where I Went in 2011
As the year wraps up, I’m looking back on how amazing it’s been, and how lucky I feel to be enjoying these experiences. This year, though I added just one new country to my list, I added many new destinations and explored my adopted country even more thoroughly.
I started off 2011 fresh from a Christmas visit in my hometown of Seattle. I rang in the New Year in the gorgeous waterfront pueblo of Lekeitio in Basque Country and made several return trips throughout the year.
I also returned to Sevilla to explore and it grew on me even more.
A beach escape to Albuefeira, Portugal for a 3-day weekend convinced me that traveling in the off-season may be the way to go.
March was low-key, and I spent it exploring my own backyard; Tarifa, Spain.
In April, I returned to Granada, met my favorite Spanish footballer (Fernando Llorente!) and tried out an Arabic Spa for the first time. Sadly, Fernando was not present.
I also celebrated Semana Santa (Easter Week) in the Basque Country, where I dined at my favorite Basque chef’s (Karlos Arguiñano) restaurant in the surfing town of Zarautz.
May marked the arrival of feria season in Spain. I went to Jerez de la Frontera for a gorgeous weekend of rebujitos, Andalusian horses, flamenco dresses and more!
June-August I severely slacked on blogging as I was busy entertaining visitors throughout the summer months. In June, I took a beautiful train-ride up north to Madrid to meet some friends, went back to Bilbao for a weekend, moved apartments and counted down the days until my family arrived!
Then, I went to Zahara de los Atunes for a weekend of beautiful beaches and al fresco dining.
July was a busy, busy, month of traveling all over Spain and France. After getting over a yucky stomach bug, I traveled (still not 100%) to sweltering Sevilla and caught a plane to Paris!
Then, I went to Tarifa, Ronda, Marbella, Granada and Nerja before I packed up the car and road-tripped from Andalucía to País Vasco. Along the way I stopped in Consuegra and saw the famous Don Quijote windmills, took a day-trip to Toledo, stopped in Madrid and finally arrived for a week of enjoying Basque culture.
Once in Basque country, I went pintxo-hopping (txikiteo) in Donostia, sight-seeing in Guernica+Bilbao and drove up and down the curvy Costa Vasca until we got to France, making stops in St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne.
On the way back down south, we stopped for a few hours in Salamanca and made it back down to the Costa del Sol.
August was a bit more relaxed, spent enjoying every minute with my family. We explored Tarifa and Sevilla together, as well as Vejer de la Frontera, a traditional Andalusian pueblo blanco.
Back to Basque Country I went, this time to attend my first-ever Basque wedding! It was a fun night filled with lots of food (9 courses!) drinks, and dancing!
A car-load of friends and I went to Granada for Halloween weekend, exploring the tea rooms in the Moorish quarter and partying until (almost) sunrise!
November was a super exciting month for me as I was heading home(!) to celebrate turning 25 and being there for my first Thanksgiving in 2 years. I spent a week in San Francisco before driving up through Northern Cal and Oregon until Seattle.
This month brings trips to Bilbao and Madrid for Christmas and ringing in 2012 respectively.
What a beautiful year it’s been!
Guest Post: 4 Day-Trips from Bilbao by Liz of LizenEspaña.com
A fellow Basque-Country enthusiast, Liz, from lizenespana.com has cheerfully agreed to share her northern Spain expertise and insight today. Moving in to her second year of living abroad, she’s come to know and appreciate the Basque region, and is spilling her secrets on the best day-trip destinations from Bilbao. Thanks, Liz!
I’ve noticed something this past year while living in Bilbao. When talking to Spanish people about where I live, they all seem to give the same response: “Eh, Bilbao is no good, you should live here,” said my host mom when I went to visit her in Valladolid.
“You actually like living there? But it’s so dirty!” was the response from a friend I met at camp. It seems that many Spaniards have the same perception of Bilbao: dirty, industrial, and not a very “fun” place to live.
I have to disagree.
Bilbao did and still does have an industrial flavor, but the citizens have embraced it and gone to great lengths to beautify the area and make it a modern, European city.
Everyone knows about the Guggenheim Museum, and it certainly has helped with Bilbao’s revival. However, one of my favorite things about living in Bilbao is that it is wonderfully connected. It has an amazing public transportation system, which enables you see a majority of the Northern Spanish countryside. Here are four of my favorite day-trips from Bilbao:
If you’re looking for a typically Basque village, Gernika is just that. It gained its notoriety during the Spanish Civil War, when the Nazis bombed it in order to support Francisco Franco’s efforts to overthrow the Basque Government and the Spanish Republicans. Over 1500 people died, as it was a market day in Gernika, and people from all over the province were there to buy and sell goods.
Last year I visited Gernika on the last Monday market day before winter. The town was full of people, and there were streets filled with stands selling cheese, bread, and txakoli (Basque white wine). I also visited the seat of the Biscay parliament, and saw the Oak of Gernika, which symbolized peace. While Pablo Picasso’s famous painting “Guernica” is located in the Reina Sofia Museum of Modern art in Madrid, you can see a reproduction of the painting in mosaic in the town center.
Castro is a small beach town in the autonomous community of Cantabria, but it’s only 30 minutes from Bilbao by bus. There’s a beautiful beach (actually, two of them), and a jetty where people lay out on sunny days. The beaches are relatively uncrowded, and the architecture on the beach is stunning. There’s also a gorgeous 13th century church and a fort that overlooks the Bay of Biscay.
I love spending the afternoon in Castro, lounging on the beach and later taking a stroll down the newly renovated pedestrian boardwalk. There are some great cafés, with pintxos and tapas, and if you ask nicely, the bartender at Café Dallas will make you some homemade sangria.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (Bakio)
I have a love/hate relationship with hiking. I never really want to do it, but once I do, I’m always glad I did. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe one of the coolest hikes I’ve done this year in the Basque Country.
San Juan is an old hermitage located on an island that can only be reached on foot. The church dates back to the 10th century, and was sacked by Sir Francis Drake in the late 1500s. There’s a stone bridge that takes you to the island, and sometimes the surf is so high that it crashes over the bridge. It’s one of those places where the closer you get, the more picturesque the view gets.
The hike isn’t overly strenuous, and only takes a couple hours. Plus, halfway to the hermitage, there’s a small café with some of the best pintxos I’ve ever eaten.
Once you get to the hermitage, you can ring the bell, have a picnic, and even stay overnight if you wish to camp there. When you are looking out over the Bay of Biscay at the jagged coastline, it’s easy to see why invaders had a difficult time conquering this part of Spain.
St. Jean de Luz
Yes, I know St. Jean de Luz is in France, but it’s still French Basque Country, so it counts. St. Jean is just over the French border, and is a posh resort town. It’s a little touristy, but it has so much charm that can be easily forgiven, especially if you visit out of season.
Walk down the main street and peruse the quaint shops, and make sure to stop for a crepe—so French. There are a number of treat shops that have beautiful pastries, and they taste just as good as they look. After, take a walk down the long beach, or check out the promenade that parallels the water.
St. Jean de Luz is also a good stopping point along the way to other notable French seaside towns, such as Bayonne and Biarritz, should you want to venture further into France.
These four locations are great places to explore, and from Bilbao, the furthest you’ll have to venture is two hours. Whether you’re looking for history, adventure, or simply a relaxing day on the beach, the northern coast of Spain is the place to be.